Each watch brand has its own distinct personality, and so do its leaders. I first met Dr. Stéphane Linder, the CEO of TAG Heuer, at a dinner party in Beijing late last year. From the moment we met, he gave off a subtle "anti-bone" vibe—calm, confident, and always ready with a solution. His air of courage and willingness to challenge the norm made me feel closer to the very essence of the TAG Heuer brand. I didn’t get a chance to speak with him until the very moment of our interview, and that’s when I learned he had been with TAG Heuer for over 20 years. The brand’s values had become part of who he was. Recently, I was lucky enough to sit down with him despite his busy schedule.
Evolving
Mr. Stéphane Linder became CEO of TAG Heuer in June of last year, so I asked him early on if there were any noticeable differences or changes in his leadership this year.
"I think what I brought to TAG Heuer is more of an evolution than a drastic change," he said without hesitation. "Because the brand already has strong assets and doesn't need major reform—it just needs further optimization and enhancement. I see our products and our approach to the Chinese market as becoming more progressive and more aligned with the marketplace. For example, we recently introduced the new Carrera Carlibre 5 series, which has a slightly classic yet unique design. It's been very well received, and the response and sales in China have been quite strong." As he spoke, I could sense his excitement and confidence.
"In addition, in terms of R&D and manufacturing, we launched the CH80 automatic movement at this year’s Basel Watch Fair. It not only offers better timing functions but also has improved power reserve and is slimmer. This strengthens TAG Heuer's position in professional watchmaking."
"We are continuously looking for where our opportunities lie, where we can rapidly develop our strengths, and keep innovating!" He suddenly asked me, "You saw our Monaco V4 Tourbillon at the Basel Watch Fair this year, right?" I nodded with a smile and replied, "Of course, it was an impressive watch."
"Yes, we're celebrating the tenth anniversary of the V4 launch. This unprecedented, one-of-a-kind tourbillon watch proves the evolving DNA of TAG Heuer's elegance and the fruitful results of its innovation."
To Innovation as the Goal
Since he mentioned the new watches this year, I asked him about the development of watch models. From the Mikrograph, the Mikrorider, last year’s Mikro Pendulum, a non-padded magnetic swinging device, to this year’s Monaco V4 Tourbillon, TAG Heuer has made groundbreaking achievements in Haute Horlogerie. In everyday wear models, such as the Homemade 1887 movement and the introduction of the CH 80 movement this year, there was also a very good response. So I asked him specifically if there was a clear plan for the next movement, function, or technology.
"I think our clearest plan is to innovate!" Mr. Stéphane Linder laughed. "The CH 80 is a more traditional, classic, high-performance chronograph movement with an 80-hour power reserve but slimmer, bringing higher value to both the brand and the consumer. It’s a form of innovation in the traditional watch sense, and we constantly seek breakthroughs in high tech or high complexity, like the Monaco V4 Tourbillon."
"The V4 was launched in 2004 and officially commercialized in 2009. After that, we continued to explore time units like 1/100, 1/1,000, 1/10,000, etc., setting up a difficult threshold that few have crossed. However, the V4 is still the best-selling sophisticated watch every year. I think it’s unique because of its innovations in concepts and design. We continue to research and develop the V4, and we will introduce newer technologies soon—perhaps next year or later. But, you know, this innovative technology takes time..." He added with a playful smile.
Mr. Stéphane Linder also revealed some plans for the new movement: "We are brewing and developing better and more innovative chronograph movements. Not only will they perform well, but the final product price will be controlled around 60,000 RMB. This way, we can make chronograph watches more popular. We may introduce such watches around 2016 or later."
The Full Potential of the Chinese Market
As the domestic market becomes increasingly important, the economic environment and government policies in China seem to have an impact on watch brands. In this regard, Mr. Stéphane Linder said: "If we talk about the proportion of the Chinese market, it's currently around 4% to 5% of the global market. If we include Chinese consumers buying abroad, it could be anywhere from 8% to 10%."
"The Chinese market still has tremendous potential for us compared to other markets," Stéphane Linder shared, reflecting on his previous experience as vice president of sales in North America. "The U.S. is TAG Heuer's largest market, second only to Rolex. Sales in the U.S. are nearly four times that of Longines and 2.5 times that of Omega, which shows the future potential of TAG Heuer in China."
He said proudly, "Changes in China's economy or government policy will have a more serious impact on other brands that dominate the market share in China. But for us, it's getting better and better. What makes us better is our product, market, and channel. We make the best judgment and control everything."
Close to the Symbol of a Rich Life
From last year's Calibre 50th Anniversary Tour in China, the release of the movie "RUSH," and the recent global tour of the "Jake Hoya" Time Museum in Shanghai and Beijing, many people feel closer to TAG Heuer's design philosophy and its connection to people's lives. So how does he view TAG Heuer's design and the attitude he wants to convey?
"I think TAG Heuer watches have a more outward-looking chronograph DNA, closer to life. They have a classic design but are also lively and vibrant—like you!" He joked, laughing at me. "Just as your jacket and dark jeans with canvas shoes today show a living yet polite and not too serious style."
I held back my embarrassment and listened. "Of course, we also know that Chinese consumers prefer a slightly more traditional and elegant design. So we make some adjustments. As previously mentioned, the Carrera Carlibre 5 series was well-received, and four of the top ten TAG Heuer watches sold in China are from this series. Through our watches and other ways, we continue to communicate a concept: when you wear a TAG Heuer, you’re different and cooler than you would be with your father’s watch."
"As more young Chinese people pursue a sense of accomplishment and a richer life, and learn to dress themselves and choose their lifestyle, more people will become fans of TAG Heuer. Whether it's our collaboration with world soccer star C. Luo, or TAG Heuer being the official partner of the world's first electric car race, or the FIA Formula E Electric Championship event in Beijing in September, these all convey that message."
Constant Self-Challenge
Working at a company for over 20 years is rare, so I assumed he had experienced the development and changes of TAG Heuer over the past two decades. He said, "In fact, the transformation over the past 20 years wasn't too drastic. Back then, most of our watches were quartz, and mechanical watches were relatively small. Then we shifted to mainly producing mechanical watches, began brand and product innovation, gradually built our stores and sales channels, developed our own watchmaking factory, and created movements like 1887 and CH80. We even introduced high-tech super-complex watches worth over 200,000 euros, like the V4 and double tourbillons. If you compare photos of TAG Heuer factories 20 years ago with today’s developments, you might find that TAG Heuer has evolved faster than any other watch brand in the past 20 years."
Here, Mr. Stéphane Linder paused for a moment before continuing, "I think we are constantly challenging ourselves. That's why we managed to overcome the crisis in 1986 and became one of the most powerful watch brands in the world. We continue to challenge ourselves and innovate."
"I think my personality aligns with that. I like innovation and challenges, and I don’t like just following the past. I may never be satisfied with the status quo, but I’m always focused on what we can do next. Of course, I value what we’ve done, but I believe we can always do better and innovate. That's also my life philosophy. I often do things that others consider crazy. It seems a bit like the brand, so I think I fit perfectly with TAG Heuer, ha ha!" We all laughed naturally.
Towards the end of the interview, I asked Mr. Stéphane Linder to describe TAG Heuer in a few simple words. "Innovation, avant-garde, and continuing to accumulate and challenge since 1860," he said with a positive tone. We ended the interview with a group photo that left us thinking deeply, and a final shot that captured the moment.
From then on, I often recall his word "avant-garde." Sometimes I wonder whether I'm avant-garde or if I have the "anti-bourgeois" qualities to be confident enough to challenge the status quo, myself, and the surrounding reality, striving to be different from ordinary people through perseverance and innovative performance. I look forward to TAG Heuer's events in August and September and hope to have the opportunity to meet Mr. Linder again.
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