Orchid is a very vigorous plant that has been widely concerned by people. What are the solutions to the yellowing of orchid leaves?


Reasons for yellowing of orchid leaves


How to do orchid leaves yellowing | Reasons and countermeasures of orchid leaf tip


1. The basin is too dry or the air humidity is too small, and the surface of the basin is too dry. In general, the blue leaf shrinkage cannot be expressed immediately. The first reflection is that the orchid leaves are dehydrated. After the water is restored, it is easy to be old. The seedlings began to walk, and the blue leaves began to turn down from the top. If the water in the basin was damaged, the blue leaves were yellow, and the yellow leaves were from the bottom to the top, and the grass was slower.


2, Langen fungus or Langen crystal head should be the same as water stains, water stains are the process, the crystal head decay is the result, the tip of the tip is the surface phenomenon. Such a focal point, as Feixiang said, the tip of the leaf is black, and after the treatment in the basin, the general focus is no longer delayed.


3, the fat damage produces a sharp tip, the focal point is brown or black. The boundary between the leaves and the non-fat blue leaves is very obvious, and the normal tissues of the orchids are also prone to spots of fat damage. Such irregular round spots are brown in the center of the spots, and the areas in contact with normal tissues are black circles with uneven thickness. Spots and boundaries are also very obvious.


4, the blue strain produces bacteria, many of which are manifested from the phenomenon of focal point. For example, the sharp tip disease, the tip of the focus is white-brown, the junction with the normal orchid tissue is dark brown, the white-brown is the dead zone, the dark brown is the attack area; the leaf blight, the tip of the pale brown is the dead zone. Dark brown is the area of ​​fungal attack, and most of the contact with normal orchid tissue is yellow-green. This yellow-green area is the normal tissue infection area of ​​orchid, which is different from the dry disease; anthracnose is also easy to show the focus. The tip of the leaf presents a dark brown, a light brown color that alternates to the lower part of the blue leaf, and there are also independent or connected dark brown patches in the leaves, and the periphery of the plaque is pale yellow.


Causes and countermeasures of the tip of the orchid leaf


How to do orchid leaves yellowing | Reasons and countermeasures of orchid leaf tip


(1) The light is too strong. Orchid is a semi-yin plant that is suitable for morning light, astigmatism, and soft light. If the illumination time is too long, the light quality is too strong, and it is easy to cause yellowing of the leaves and burning of the leaves. The countermeasure is to adjust the illumination time and light intensity in the summer and autumn to avoid direct sunlight. The most common and simple method is to use different specifications of the sunshade net, the shade is generally 60%~80%, and the edge art, the art, the crystal art, and the graphic art are up to 90%.


(2) Air drying. When the air is wet, the blue leaves are bright and radiant. If the air is dry, the texture of the leaves is rough and the phenomenon of the focal point occurs. Especially in the north with drought, less rain and windy, the air in the spring, autumn and winter seasons is often dry, and the tip of the orchid leaves is particularly serious. The solution is to spray the leaf surface and spray water to the ground when the air is dry. You can also put the sink in the blue basin, use the nylon cloth as the pool in the blue shed and the blue room, hang the wet curtain and install the automatic spray Humidifier.


(3) Watering loss. Like other plants, orchids don't have water, and watering too much or too much can cause losses. This is often the case, because the potting soil is too full, the watering is not much, that is, the outward flow, the result is that the upper side is wet and dry, forming a "half" water. Over time, the roots are dehydrated from the tip of the leaves. Another reason is that this phenomenon is also likely to occur due to the inadvertent leakage of water. On the contrary, whether it is soil or granules, the water is watered on time and in the same amount, causing the soil material to be too wet and dehydrated, and the breathing is not smooth, causing the roots to become black or even rot, causing the orchid leaves to dry and burn. The countermeasure is to follow the growth habits of different orchids and timely watering to prevent the occurrence of the above two bad tendencies.


(4) Excessive fertilization. Orchid is the fleshy root, and it is symbiotic with orchid. It only needs to be thin and fertile, and it can grow strong and leafy. If excessive fertilization, especially the application of raw fat or rich fertilizer, will lead to root rot, yellow tip, premature aging. The correct way is to apply fertilizer at appropriate time according to different orchid varieties, different growth stages and different growth. If the root is fertilized, the liquid fertilizer prepared by organic fertilizer must be mixed with 1:10~20 times of water before use; the fertilizer is prepared by 0.1%~0.2%, and it is applied once in January. Foliar spray fertilizer should be light and not thick. If you use the micro-fertilizer such as Orchid King and Spray Shibao, be sure to follow the product instructions. Do not increase the concentration arbitrarily to avoid causing damage.


(5) Abnormal physiological function of the leaves. Some due to the excessive application of nitrogen, resulting in young leaves, anti-reverse decline; due to spraying fertilizer, pesticide concentration is too high, silting the tip of the blade, causing damage; due to poor winter cold-proof measures, causing leaf tip frostbite. There is also a small spacing between the basins, and the tip and the tip of the blade collide with each other and cause damage. The measures taken were dialectical treatment and the right place. That is to say, the three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are reasonably applied, and the concentration of spray fertilizer is not strong, so it is good to prevent cold and warm work in early winter and early spring, and increase the distance between pots and pots to prevent the occurrence of physiological functions of leaves.

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