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Alex graduated from Harvard Business School and is a co-founder of a high-tech venture capital fund in Beijing. Maggie is a founding team member of Uber China and is now involved in Internet entrepreneurship.
In June of this year, they opened the door to mountaineering in a way different from most domestic enthusiasts. Where is the first mountain of life? This is a cliché problem. There are N reasons why we should look further and see the cradle of mountaineering, the Alps.
1 First-rate mountaineering coach and guide
Amateur amateurs in the country may not find a starting platform that is higher than Alex. Alex's mountaineering coach, Alexis Mallon, is a senior instructor at the French National Skiing School of Skiing Mountaineering (ENSA). He is currently the director of the International Exchange Department. Before that, he was the head of the mountain climbing department at ENSA and was responsible for high mountains. Wizard training and assessment.
Located in Chamonix, ENSA enjoys an authoritative reputation in the international mountaineering community. It has trained mountain guides and ski instructors as professionals. It has trained thousands of guides to the mountains of France and other countries for decades. The current mainstays in the Chinese mountaineering community, such as Sun Bin, Kang Hua, CMDI Mountain Guide, and some excellent guides for the Tibet Mountaineering School have all been trained at ENSA or trained by ENSA instructors. In a sense, this is also the Whampoa Military Academy of China's modern mountaineering.
ENSA instructors, Gold Blast Award winners, follow such top mountain guides to learn mountaineering, no longer out of reach.
2 First-class climbing conditions
As much as possible is the only way to improve your ability. This is the view that climbers all agree with. And time is what amateurs lack. How can we climb the most efficiently in the shortest possible time?
The Alps has the world's oldest climbing history and has accumulated unparalleled climbing resources and infrastructure for more than two hundred years. The cable car, the mountain hotel is located in the middle of each valley.
On the first day, it flew to Europe, and on the second day it took off shopping and purchasing equipment. On the third day, the rest of the world may not yet reach the foot of the mountain. In the Alps, the first route has begun to climb above the glacier.
Stay for a week, take the cable car every day and quickly reach the starting point of the route, complete a moderate length of climbing route in one day. Or stay in a mountain hotel for a few days and climb a route every day. Delicious morning and evening meals, comfortable accommodation, quick recovery and full use of every day climbing time.
Taking Chamonix as an example, during the climbing season, 1,500 climbers from all over the world climbed in and around the Mont Blanc mountain range. Yes, there are no clerical errors. The average number is 1,500 per day. Almost no world-class climber will miss Chamonix in his lifetime, whether it be the United States, Canada or Japan. Various styles and ideas were exchanged here and there, and the birth of the U.S. route of the U.S. route to the west of the U.S. route, and the route to the north of the Greater Jos, also laid the foundation for the global climbing capital of Chamonix.
So don't ask which mountain to climb in the Alps. There are far more than impossible routes to climb in the Alps. You can find surprises in the Alps every time.
3 More solid technical training
Technical climbing is not exclusive to professional climbers. Solid technology can challenge even harder routes, and you can also enjoy activities on the mountain to relax your body and reduce fatigue. This is the foundation for eliminating fear. Learning mountaineering in the Alps, from the beginning to get rid of dependence on the rope, even if both sides are cliffs, the smooth rock wall, are under the guidance of the guarantee to rely on their own ability to climb, only a few popular peaks Some road sections will have exceptions. So solid ice and rock technology is particularly important. If you don't master the two technologies well, climbing can't be discussed.
There are no ropes and guides ensure that various ropes are used on different terrains. On the glacier, a distance of several ten meters is grouped, and the steep terrain immediately receives a lanyard group. When crossing it, rocks are used as natural protection points, or the most concise equipment is used as a protection station to ensure the passage. Sometimes it is simul climbing by running belay. If you are interested, these technical operations and inquiries are all part of the learning process.
Teaming up with a guide means that you must follow the pace of the guide. The style of fast climbing is also Al-Aqe climbing. In addition to the limited rest, the rest of the time is continuously climbing. Moving fast means reducing the amount of time you are exposed to risk, avoiding long breaks that keep your body in motion, and once you are cold, you may feel more tired. Finding the rhythm is also a good climbing habit for the future.
Domestic enthusiasts say that mountaineering is a must for snow, and rock climbing ability is often overlooked. In contrast, the guides of the Alps pay more attention to rock climbing. The essence of the Alps is to face the complexity and transformation of the terrain, may switch at any time in the ice, snow, rocks, just the topography of the Kassim Ridge, mixed with the internal angle, light panels, chimneys and other different rocky terrain. 5.1x rock climbing ability is not necessary, but the basic skills of rock climbing, such as support, the center of gravity moves between the feet, and climbing becomes easier. In some cases, rock climbing can provide safer route options. Alexis told Alex about this. In the three terrains of snow and ice, snow has the fastest change, and it is also the most difficult to judge. Sometimes it is not possible to know if the snow layer is stable below or not. The snow layer is thick and covered with a rock light board, all of which are risk factors. Rocks change little in a short time and are easier to climb, so in many cases the rock route is the best solution. With such a learning experience, you can know what your lack of ability is, and where you need to strengthen training.
Climbing also includes plans for climbing the entire journey. In the Alps, climbing is usually not limited to a mountain, but it is a complete plan that consists of different altitudes and difficulties. In this way rising and falling repeatedly, slowly elevating altitude can understand how the body truly completes the process of altitude adaptation.
With better techniques for climbing, no matter how big the plans are, 8,000 meters or 7+2 in the future, the mentality will become more emboldened. Because these mountains are only rising at an altitude, the technical difficulty will no longer be an obstacle because in the climbing experience, the more difficult and difficult alpine route has already laid a solid technical foundation.
4 Better understanding of modern mountaineering concepts
The job of a qualified mountain guide is to allow customers to climb the summit and return safely. A good alpine guide will allow the customer to make great strides in the climbing process. If you can communicate with the guide to better understand the essence of modern mountaineering, congratulations, such a mountain guide can be encountered.
Every time I talk about the Gold Blast Award, or interviews with mountaineers, I always stress the importance of climbing. It is better to give up the summit and not to compromise on the way of climbing. Where does this idea come from? In the Alps, and an excellent mountain guide, climbing a series of technical routes under reasonable planning, it is natural to understand how the values ​​of modern mountaineering are formed.
As mountaineers, this start-up experience will allow you to better plan your future mountaineering journey. Let mountain climbing be a part of life, and enjoy the inner pleasures of climbing every time during a long journey of life. Such a guide will use his rich experience, insights and insights as you enter the threshold of climbing. Experience shows you the most suitable path.
Starting from a zero-based climber, climbing for the first time can make a comprehensive understanding of mountain climbing more important than climbing one or two peaks. Alexis's suggestion is this: In the first week, following the guides to climb various types of mountain trails, first of all to have an overall impression of modern mountaineering. In later climbs, if you want to develop in an autonomous climbing direction, the guide can teach various technical details, applicable situations, and various climbing strategies. It is also possible to continue to try even harder routes through Alpine-style commercial climbs, various snow and ice routes on the North Wall, rocky peaks, Matterhorn, Greens, Eiger, and even the Big Three. Alexis said: "As a guide, the hardest route I took with the customer was to climb the northern wall of Greater Chora, the central froncy rock pillar on the south face of Mont Blanc, and the rocky route of the Grand Capusin peak of Capsa in 8a."
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In addition, there are various reasons for choosing the Alps.
If you want to experience a pleasant climb, but do not want to endure the discomfort caused by high altitude, or even the negative impact on the brain, then an altitude of no more than 5,000 meters in the Alps can minimize the impact of high altitude factors.
If you prefer to enjoy your personal space, the standard model of the Alps is a small team of 1-2 people.
If the work prevents you from being “lost†in the mountains for a few days a week, the infrastructure of the Alps can continue the vacation-office during the break.
If you are full of love for nature, but cannot live a life of a lack of modern civilization, the Alps can make you travel to and from the mountains and towns every day. Climb in the mountains during the day and go back to the hotel for food and spa in the evening. It can even be accompanied by a family member. On the last night, Maggie, a self-inflicted self-proclaimed French feast, drew the perfect end of the climb.
If you still want to experience other sports while climbing, paragliding, rafting, helicopter parades, and the Alps are not missing.
Different guides have their own distinct personality and style, and matching is an important factor. Alex's personality is calm, and everything needs to be asked. He needs a scholar-type mountaineering instructor who is good at theory. With a young, aggressive young man, Seb, who is equally young and strong, can climb with him at a faster pace. Maggie is ignorant of being "cheat" to the Alps, and the harder line is not her pursuit. The only purpose is to climb happily. Shuai is the first element.
What kind of experience is learning mountain climbing in the Alps? Pay attention to this public number and read the reviews of Alex, Maggie, Jiahe and Summer that were released in the next few days. For different foundations, different physical conditions, different field conditions, and different climbing experiences. There are both a zero-based start and a classic climb of Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn.
For a better understanding, a simple introduction to the Alpine difficulty, the difficulty is divided into a total of 7 levels, according to the French abbreviation, are
F facile, easy
The more direct glacier ice and snow routes, the slope is relatively flat.
Example: Brethorn/Normal route
PDpeu difficile, slightly more difficult
The angle of ice and snow may reach 45 degrees, and the glaciers are more complex and require rock to climb easily.
Example: Mont Blanc Route, Mont Blanc/Gouter route
AD assez difficile, harder
Ice and snow may reach 45 to 65 degrees, rock climbing does not last up to 3 or more (French standard, the same below), there is a need to ensure that the climbing section, and more do not need to ensure that, but the exposure is relatively strong rock section.
Example: The regular route of the southwest wall of Giant's Tooth Peak, Dent du Geant/SW Face normal route
Example: Matterhorn/Hoernli ridge normal route
D difficile, hard
The rock difficulty may reach 4a to 5a, and the ice and snow may reach 50 to 70 degrees. The technical difficulty is more continuous.
Example: Brenva Spur (AD+~D), Mont Blanc/Brenva Spur
Example: Innominata Ridge (D-D+), Mont Blanc/Innominata ridge south of Mont Blanc
TD très difficile, hard
Ice and snow continue at 65 to 80 degrees, and rock difficulty is 4c to 5c. There are often difficult climbs on successive long stretches of road. Exposure to objective risks (falling rocks, avalanches, etc.)
Example: Matterhorn/north face Schmid route
ED1/2/3/4 extrêmement difficile, extremely difficult
Large section of vertical ice wall, rock difficulty 6a ~ 7b.
Example of ED1: Complete Route of Mont-Blanc Putre, Mont Blanc/Peuterey ridge integral
Example of ED2: Heckmayer route, North Face, Eiger/north face Heckmair route
ED3 Example: Xiao Lufeng, West Cliff, USA Straight Up, petit Dru/west face American Direttissima
ABO
Abominablement difficile, horrible
More difficult than ED level. Usually less common.
Example: Eiger/north face Czech Direttissima
From F to TD can be more difficult by increasing - +, ED is refined by 1-4. ABO is no longer subdivided.